The Last Step
The American Ascent of K2
By Rick Ridgeway

Editorial Review: This book is an account of the third ascent of K2, and the first by a party of Americans. The author is one of the climbers who reached the summit. The expedition was led by Jim Whittaker, whose attempt in 1975 failed because of bad weather and other problems. He was given permission by the authorities in Pakistan to try again in 1978.

Chris Bonington's party had also been given permission for an attempt in that year, and as they had chosen the West Ridge route the Americans opted for the Northeast Ridge. Bad weather caused many delays on the mountain and shortage of time and supplies caused the two summit pairs to abandon the traditional fixed-rope methods and make an alpine-style attempt on the summit from their position at 25,000 feet. The direct route up the Northeast Ridge proved impossible, and it was necessary to traverse across the east face to the Abruzzi ridge where Camp 6 was established at 26,000 feet. From this camp both summit pairs reached the top on successive days, indeed a fine achievement.

According to the publisher's blurb this is a story of people, their fears, desires and disappointments… the expedition certainly had its fair share of disharmony and frustration, and the members found plenty to quarrel about. There was much argument about the use of oxygen, and in the event three of the four who reached the summit did so after discarding their oxygen apparatus...

...The color photographs, which occupy 32 pages in the middle of the book, are very good. - V.S. Risoe - Himalayan Journal